These are my beliefs I will endeavor to substantiate into opinion, but it is just that: my own!

Unless otherwise stated, all photographs of coins are taken through the plastic of grading holders, some of which have over time been scuffed or scratched, sometimes unfortunately over a coin. Please take these, especially the photos I took myself with a grain of salt, I’m just trying my best to show these coins to you!

An example in my collection of a variety is not necessarily attributed as such on the holder, even for FS varieties! Everything listed is about the coin, not the holder. There are examples where an aspect of the grading label might be inaccurate to the reality of the date, mint, or variety of the actual coin inside that, and in those cases I will be listing it by the truth of what the coin really is. Don’t look at the cage, you’ve got to look at the monkey!

This is not meant as any sort of price guide. I do not include prices of any coin issues but instead may allude to their rarity and value as being high or low. eBay sold listings (except accepted best offers) is the best way to see the market value of a coin, along with sold auction listings on sites such as GreatCollections.com. If you look up any of the certification numbers of my collection, they might show you a price. Remember that grain of salt from earlier? You’re going to need to take a BIG brick-sized grain with these, which can swing hundreds of dollars higher or lower than the actual market value of a coin. Even then, if you’re seeing consistent sales at a certain price point, that does not mean that you cannot still be patient and eventually snag one at auction or make an offer that’s cheaper. Never give up!

-Check certifications on the grading company’s website. Discrepancies do occur!

-Always look at the coin. Mistakes can be made, even and especially by the grading companies!

-Grades can be both inaccurate and incomplete. Always check for things like full bands!

Population numbers will consist of ANACS, CACG, NGC, and PCGS coins unless otherwise stated by an asterisk in such cases where data is partially available and explain in what way. This will be only up to the date listed below each entry, and only include ATTRIBUTED varieties, strike designations and such, and are BY NO MEANS EXHAUSTIVE NOR COMPLETE. These numbers are likely to only go up, potentially by a great deal, so always check for yourself! So is the danger of collecting, but also the fun!

Unless I specify otherwise with an asterisk, all coins shown are graded by ANACS, CACG, NGC or PCGS exclusively. All photographs are accordingly through the plastic of the holders, unless they’re taken by the grading company prior to encapsulating.

The order for the Roosevelts will be by CONECA number NOT by FS number, proof (if issued) then mint state, first the standard issue then varieties DDO, then DDR, RPM and other. In cases of overlap, this will serve as the order of operations.

Fun Codes and Numbers!!!

FS Numbers:

When I say “FS-101 is very rare and desirable,”

FS-101: The first doubled die obverse for the issue that Fivaz and Stanton declared significant

FS-102 The second doubled die obverse for the issue that Fivaz and Stanton declared significant

FS-103 The third doubled die obverse for the issue that Fivaz and Stanton declared significant

FS-199: The ninety-ninth doubled die obverse for the issue that Fivaz and Stanton declared significant

To designate the type of variety, the first number will change:

FS-801: The first doubled die reverse for the issue that Fivaz and Stanton declared significant

FS-501: The first repunched mintmark OR overmintmark for the issue that Fivaz and Stanton declared significant

There are a few more specific for obverse and reverse design varieties, but honestly I am not confident enough in them myself to relay them correctly! Outlined above is going to be 99% of all the modern FS numbers you’ll encounter.

VP-00?

NGC’s way of saying:

VP-001: The first super-significant variety for this issue, typically already an FS variety, and potentially alternatively labeled as the FS variety on other NGC slabs, but this is just for fun! It could be a doubled die obverse, reverse, repunched mintmark or more, you’ll have to look up the CONECA or FS numbers on NGC’s website, toggle between MS and Proof in the upper right corner. I have included the VP numbers smaller and further down on the listings for reference, but I do not believe that at the time of writing they command enough notes 

The third number changes to indicate the number of significant variety it will be labeled, all the way up to VP-999 for the nine-hundred-and-ninety-ninth significant variety for an issue!

Acronyms:

DDO: Doubled Die Obverse

DDR: Doubled Die Reverse

RPM: Repunched Mintmark

OMM: Overmintmark,

FB, FT, FSB: Full Bands

CAM: Cameo, the black and white contrast on proof coins between the bright fields and the inky black mirrored background.

DCAM, UCAM, HCAM: Deep Cameo: A coin in the highest tier of cameo contrast between the surfaces and the background.

PL: Proof-Like, a coin with a smooth partially mirrored surface produced by a non-proof die.

NFC: Not For Circulation, anything intended by the mint to be a collector item and not meant to be circulated as pocket change.

RP: Reverse Proof, a type of finish for a coin in which the background is matte and the devices are mirrored.

FS: Fivaz-Stanton

VP: Variety Plus, NGC’s special way of referring to varieties designed to confuse and further gatekeep budding cherrypickers.

The lack of interest in Roosevelt dimes relative to other denominations is mostly a blessing, but also leaves some potential to be a curse. Due to its lack of popularity, especially that of recent decades, there’s a chance that some varieties we think are rare might in fact be peppered through bags of junk silver across the country that have never been looked at with enough magnification and knowledge to find! I think this is part of the fun, and I look forward to all the discoveries that are to be found as this little coin draws more attention.